Book Review: Vraic - A guide to Guernsey Seaweed

Author: Ben and Naomi Tustin Price: £20

Published: by Blue Ormer Review by: Keith Le Page

I have always marvelled at the many different types of seaweed found on Guernsey beaches, and so it was that I offered to review Vraic by Ben and Naomi Tustin. What one might expect to be a somewhat specialist book is in fact a most entertaining read.

I expected to see seaweed pictures, with Latin names for the purists, and these are all included. But there is much more than this, which leaves one inspired to go down to the beach, identify the seaweeds there, and maybe include them in a recipe.

I did not know that Guernsey is the only place in the world where the right to collect seaweed is enshrined in law. In the 18th century this right was limited to only the parish of residency, although the St Andrew’s residents, being landlocked, were given sole rights to collect seaweed from Lihou Island.

Vraic was historically collected by the cartload and was the only fertiliser used by farmers for many centuries, and the slipways around the island were constructed for this purpose. Vraic was replaced by chemical fertilisers in the 1950’s and 60’s, perhaps an ongoing mistake!

The structure of seaweed is explained, and the number of different types of seaweed in Guernsey is estimated at about 750.

There is a large section containing descriptions of the main edible seaweeds and how to prepare them. Pepper Dulce, found in Guernsey from late September until late April, is probably the most expensive fresh seaweed in the world at £5 for 30 grams, and is known as the ‘truffle of the sea’.

The book has further ‘Interesting facts about Seaweed’, including its use as a source of iodine, and also sections on the history of Guernsey Seaweed Ltd, and the Seaweed Food Co, set up by the book’s authors.

Living currently about 70 miles from the sea, my seaweed spotting and preparation will have to wait until my two weeks in Guernsey in the summer. However this book will be coming with me to help search out and use this wonderful resource.